While Philip stays in Thimpu to get some rest before we start our trek, the rest of us make the 3-hour drive to Wangdue Phodrang for the local tzechu.
Tsechus are religious festivals in honor of Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche. By attending a tsechu, it is believed that one gains merit. Also, the tsechu serves as a yearly social event where women dress in their best kira and men in their best gho. Tsechu is the only time foreigners and non-Buddhists are allowed to enter most dzongs, where most religious events take place, without special permission.
Wangdue Phodrang, also colloquially called Wangdi, is mostly a small town with a single main street, lined on both sides by a "bazaar" of shops offering an assortment of groceries, clothing and household items. The town's dzong, founded in 1638 by the Shadrung (founder of mondern Bhutan), lies on a side road off the main street. It sits on top of a ridge between to major rivers, the Punak Chhu and Dan Chhu.
Rumor has it that we were supposed to meet the governor (also known as the penlop) of Wangdue Phodrang. As it turns out, though, either because of miscommunication, bad planning, or both, we missed our chance to meet him.
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Bruce (taking picture), Wendy, Michael, Marina, and Tammy are off to Wangdue Phodrang. |
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Wangdi, our guide throughout our trip in Bhutan |
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A typical Bhutanese homestead on the way to Wangdue Phodrang from Thimpu |
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On one of our stops to "use the bush", Brian snaps this photo of a spider. |
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A flowering tree |
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A view of the Punak Chhu from the road leading into the Wangdue Phodrang area. |
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The Wangdue Phodrang Dzong from the other side of the only access bridge and road to the town. |
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The entrance to the Wandue Phodrang Dzong. |
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The Dance of the Four Stags is underway. |
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The Stag Dance lasts for nearly an hour. Dancers do not rest or take breaks until the dance ends. |
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A typical jester-like character that entertains between performances, and generally livens things up with comically lewd behavior. |
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Sunglasses are something of a status symbol here, so this child proudly sports his. |
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A grotto with stone carvings/paintings of deities and prayers. |
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Formal dress for religious events or when meeting important persons. The long white scarf is called a kabney. |
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Because cameras are rare, we were often requested to take pictures of people, especially on the festival days when everyone was in their best clothes. |
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Bhutanese buildings, including dzongs, are built without a blueprint or plan, signs of which show up in interesting, if not curious, structural abutments. |
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Balconies weigh with people trying to get a better view of the dance performances. |
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High atop the dzong we see a small tower, from which we see a golden Buddha statue. |
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As the dance performances wind down, people find space on the grass outside the dzong for a picnic lunch. |
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Young and old alike munch on rice with chilies and cheese, and for "desert", apples. |
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A holy man chanting mantras before a miniature portable altar. |
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Lots of coming and going through the ornately painted entrance to the dzong. |
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Our jester friend again. |
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The Stag and Hounds Dance |
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A large old tree, considered holy, provides much needed shade on this festival day. |
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The second and third floor walkways and balconies as see from the courtyard of the dzong. |
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Mandalas flank both sides of this particularly ornate doorway. |